Surrounded by sand dunes and long grass undulating away to the edge of a deep blue ocean – a glass of champagne and an admirably first-rate cheeseboard beside me as we sprawl on the warm, wide leather cushions of The Oitavos’ large sundeck – we’re quite convinced we’ve have found Nirvana.
Owned and run by the Champalimaud family (all but Portuguese royalty), just being inside this five-star hotel and spa on Portugal’s Estoril Coast is relaxing in the extreme; created by Portuguese architect José Amaral Anahory, the interior vast and open plan, with calming music, gentle artwork and smooth, minimalist furnishings in various shades of blue. The focus is on natural light and, with every outer wall dominated by floor-to-ceiling glass and subsequent panoramas, it is gloriously successful.
The hotel is encircled by a top-100 rated links golf course, and (perfect for golf widows) a beautiful spa complete with sauna, steam room, gym and warm saltwater pool. Nevertheless, it’s the 142 rooms and suites which steal the show, replete with soft, minimalist charm aided by spacious, open-plan design, cutting edge technology, Aromatherapy Associates toiletries, huge balconies and yet more wonderful full-height glass doors which flood the room with sunlight.
The hotel also has a sushi bar on Fridays and Saturdays, a chef’s table in the kitchens, a chic pool bar and two restaurants; Verbasco (located in the Club House) and Ipsylon. The latter sits in the open-plan public area and serves dishes combining the best of Portuguese tradition and a dash of French flair (the influence of chef Cyrill Devilliers, who studied under Michel Guérard). The staff (as they are everywhere at The Oitavos) are delightful, and the wines – which include a lovely selection from Quinta do Cotto, also owned by the Champalimaud family – are suitably delicate and moreish.
The hotel lies a short walk from the delightful town of Cascais, with Lisbon’s chic designer shops, gleaming architecture and excellent eateries a further 35 minutes west by train. Once you’ve worked up an appetite snapping up some bargains, head up to the hyper-exclusive Eleven for a gourmet treat and a spectacular view over the entire city from its home atop one of Lisbon’s seven hills. Here, surrounded by modern, minimalist décor, chef Joachim Koerper creates cosmopolitan, Mediterranean-inspired dishes – among them such highlights as roasted lobster with asparagus, egg and smoked ham emulsion, and sea bass fillet with seasonal mushrooms, eggplant caviar and coral béarnaise – complemented by excellent wines which, combined, make for a thoroughly satisfying and unusual experience. Follow this with a soothing class of vino verde in one of the outdoor cafés in the cobbled, buzzing Chiado district, then hop back on the train and return to your sundeck and cheeseboard.
Glug & Chew 